Cyprus wine industry today

The island ranks 50th globally in total production—approximately 10,302 tonnes—but performs notably well on a per capita basis, making wine production a meaningful contributor to its economy through cultivation, tourism, employment, and exports.

Unique to Cyprus, many vineyards remain ungrafted, as the island avoided the devastating phylloxera epidemic that destroyed much of Europe's vines in the 19th century. This contributes to the authenticity and resilience of its indigenous varieties.

In recent years, the industry has undergone a transformation. Once dominated by a few large companies producing volume-driven table wines for export to Eastern bloc markets, Cyprus now hosts a vibrant scene of micro-wineries and innovative producers, crafting distinctive wines that reflect the island’s terroir and heritage—focusing both on quality and indigenous grapes

Ancient Legacy: The historical roots of cpriot wine

Winemaking in Cyprus stretches back millennia—archaeological finds suggest viticulture was established as early as 6,000 years ago. Over the centuries, the wine tradition persisted, evolving through the ancient, medieval, and modern eras:

Ancient Period: The earliest written reference to a sun-dried grape wine (likely an early form of Commandaria) appears around 800 BCE, described by the poet Hesiod as “Cypriot Manna”.
Medieval Era & Crusaders: In the 12th century, Commandaria rose to renown. At his 1191 wedding in Limassol, King Richard the Lionheart reportedly drank it and declared it “the wine of kings and the king of wines.”
The Battle of the Wines in 1224, organized by King Philip Augustus of France, was allegedly won by Commandaria.
Venetian Golden Age: Under Venetian rule in the 15th and 16th centuries, Commandaria reached its commercial peak, exported widely to Europe, the Middle East, and beyond.
Ottoman Decline: Following Ottoman conquest (~1571), heavy taxes led production into sharp decline—much of it driven underground, for personal consumption.
British Revival: During British rule (late 19th century–1960), production began to pick up. New cooperatives were formed, and oak barrel aging was introduced—marking a modern chapter in winemaking.
PDO Recognition: In 1993, Commandaria received Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status under EU law, legally defining its production parameters.

Commandaria: The World's Oldest Named Wine

Legend & Heritage

Recognized by Guinness as the oldest named wine still in production.
Its name comes from “La Grande Commanderie”—the Crusader knights' headquarters at Kolossi Castle.
It bore royal acclaim in the Middle Ages and was served at prestigious gatherings of nobility throughout Europe.
Its production is deeply rooted in tradition and culture, recognized in 2021 as intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO unesco.org.cyunesco.org.cy.

Traditional Production

Made exclusively in 14 villages on the southern slopes of the Troodos Mountains—from Mavro (red) and Xynisteri (white) grapes.
The grapes are sun-dried (7–12 days or more), concentrating sugar via traditional “Pastelisma” drying.
Fermentation may be halted with grape spirit added, boosting alcohol to 15–20%, followed by aging for at least two years in oak barrels—often under a solera-style method.
The PDO enforces these limits, ensuring Commandaria remains traditional in style and local in origin.
Symbols of its sensory profile include honey, raisin, caramel, coffee, fig, walnut, spices like cinnamon and cardamom—and a deep amber hue.

Modern Revival & Challenges

Production today is relatively small, roughly 200,000 bottles per year.
Micro-wineries like Revecca (Ayios Mamas) and Loel are revitalizing quality-focused Commandaria; some even experiment with clay pitharia—reviving ancient, pre-modern methods
Constraints such as PDO rules are sometimes seen as limiting innovation—some producers hope to rediscover older, more authentic techniques.
Global marketing remains a challenge. Though niche, interest is rising—especially among enthusiasts who experience Commandaria’s complexity for the first time.
Domestic demand is increasing, partly making up for the loss of old tourist markets like Russia; efforts to expand into markets like China are ongoing.

A Final Toast

The Modern Cyprus wine scene melds innovation and tradition—boosted by micro-producers tapping into indigenous grapes, terroir-driven identity, and wine tourism—all while honoring ancient roots.

Commandaria stands as a living testament to this legacy: a wine that spans millennia, once revered by kings, tested in medieval contests, suppressed under empires, reborn under cooperatives, and championed once again by passionate winemakers today.

Cyprus Wine. Modern days and historical roots